So Close To The Edge

August 8, 2019 I woke to a 2 AM (PDT) alarm. My husband, Jarad, and I were in Las Vegas for a conference he was attending. The night before we went to dinner with friends and didn't get back to our hotel until 10 PM so it had been a short sleep. Even so I was instantly awake, full of excitement and a touch of angst over the pending day’s events. I washed my face and dressed quickly while Jarad made me breakfast, a piece of toast for the road. The whole time I thought he would tell me not to go. If he had I may have listened, but his calm demeanor, even as he walked me out to the valet to get the car, made me think he wasn’t a bit worried. The valet, however, showed a bit of surprise and concern when he opened both doors and I placed my hiking backpack on the passenger seat and hopped into the driver seat alone. My backpack was heavy enough to set off the seat belt alarm and I moved it to the floor as I drove out on the strip. The city was creepily empty and quiet on that night. I headed north on Interstate 15 where the road was dark and grew darker still as I drove away from town into the desert. Herein lay the angst. Not long before, I had hit a deer in my home state of Washington so I was always on high alert for animals. I also knew from prior drives on this same stretch that there would be areas of no cell phone reception. On this trip I would only see three other cars, semis actually, on the entire 2.5 hour stretch. The road was so dark I could see a million stars in the sky. I couldn’t help thinking about if something went wrong. To stay calm and awake I ate my toast and listened to Rush, the Presto album.

Continuing on through a stretch of Arizona I crossed the border into Utah around 4:30 AM (MDT), the sky just beginning to lighten with the first rays of sunlight. Excited to be back in cell phone range I called Jarad who answered quickly. I apologized for waking him, but he had not been asleep since I left, apparently tracking my progress whenever service permitted. It turns out he was worried. With the worst of the drive behind me and the sun coming up on a gorgeous day I could now concentrate on the excitement. I was headed to Zion National Park where I would finally, on my third visit to the park, hike Angels Landing. Angels Landing is one of the most famous day hikes in Zion, or anywhere, but is not for the faint of heart or anyone with fear of heights. The hike follows the narrow spine of a rock formation to a viewpoint at 5,790 feet of elevation. Chain guard rails assist along the exposed trail, only a few feet wide in some sections, with drop offs of more than a thousand feet on either side. Since 2002, 13 people have fallen to their death on this trail. But I wasn’t at all anxious about that.

Arriving at the park I found parking and got in line for the first shuttle of the day. My backpack was heavy with water and my limited edition national park passport book. I considered leaving the book in the car, but this documentation of my national park visits, many with my mom as we continue in our quest to visit them all, has become one of my most prized possessions and I would suffer the extra weight. Note: my mom and I have the large commemorative version, not the pocket size book. I waited in line with a group of people ahead of me and another behind. We compared plans and a couple of the other women seemed concerned that I would attempt this hike by myself. Undeterred I exited the shuttle at stop number six, the only person on the shuttle to disembark at this stop. The hike starts at the Grotto Trailhead and crosses the hiker’s bridge over the Virgin River. From here you take the paved West Rim Trail up through Refrigerator Canyon, named for the constant cool temperature in this area. Next you come to Walter’s Wiggles, a set of 21 switchbacks, where you climb in elevation, finally reaching Scout Lookout. Here you leave the West Rim Trail for the Angels Landing viewpoint. You also have a clear view of the trail ahead and a chance to change your mind, as I would see several people do that day. If you go forward the trail follows the narrow precipice already described. This part of the trail is not recommended for anyone who is out of shape, not well balanced on their feet or afraid of ledges or heights. If you suffer any of these conditions, going on at this point could put you or others in danger.

As I started out with the sun coming up I felt nothing but pure happiness and peace. I only passed a handful of people going up. The trail was mostly quiet and I felt like I had the whole park to myself. At Scout Lookout I noted the sign that warned that 12, with a crossed out 9, (currently 13) people had lost their lives here. A few people were sitting and presumably deciding if they would go up or not. Some people call this spot “chicken out point” but there is no shame in that on this trail. The first part of the trail is paved and not very difficult. Here the trail becomes more rugged and there are chains to hold onto. The difference in difficulty on this section compared to the first part of the trail should not be taken lightly and if not prepared can take you by surprise. From here some spots require some scrambling or large steps up or down. Feeling prepared with proper hiking shoes and being an experienced hiker, I set off confidently. As I crossed the last part of the hike, on the ledge, I confirmed what I suspected, that I have no fear of heights. I was able to cross easily, even admiring the view below me as I went. At this time of the morning I only had to stop a few times to let others pass from the opposite direction. At the top I sat and had a snack and admired the view. I snapped a selfie and sent it to my mom.

View of Zion Canyon from Angel’s Landing Summit

Neil Peart writes in Far and Near that he didn’t stay long on top and was eager to get back down. The scramble down can be even scarier than going up for some. However, I didn’t feel that way. Feeling completely at ease, I could have sat at the top for much longer except that it was getting very hot and the trail was becoming much busier. I reluctantly set off again to make my way back down. By comparison, on the way down I passed at least 50 people and made frequent stops on the wider parts of the trail to let others pass.

At the bottom I took the shuttle back to the visitor center, collected my passport stamp and bought myself an Angels Landing magnet to commemorate the occasion. Back in the car an iced cold bottle of water and my flip flops were waiting. See our blog “It’s Good to Be Alone” for my personal hiking tips. After a quick stop for gas in Springdale and a dirty soda in St. George, which I enjoyed sitting near their pretty LDS temple, I set off on I-15 south to Las Vegas. While I had driven in the other direction three times, every time in the dark, this was my first time going in this direction and in daylight. It turned out to be a beautiful drive across the barren Nevada desert. I was much more at peace with the drive on this return trip.

Hiking Angels Landing was even better than I expected. Most of the hike I was alone or with very few people around me. My first mediocre impressions of Zion as an overcrowded park improved in the quiet and solitude of the early morning. The rock walls showed pink and orange and the only sound was the birds chirping as the sun slowly invaded the canyon. I wasn’t afraid on the trail or at the top. The only anxiety I had over the hike was when I was back in Las Vegas where I felt anxious to do it all again. I still count August 8, 2019 as one of the top five days of my life.

Disclaimer: Angel’s Landing is one of the most dangerous trails in the national park system. Since 2002, 13 people have fallen to their death on this trail. There are many risks, both natural and/or man-made, that can lead to injury or death while hiking. It is the responsibility of the individual to learn the necessary skills for safe hiking. All participants must assume responsibility for their own actions and safety, exercise sound judgment, be prepared for all conditions, and seek advice on current weather and trail conditions. Conditions can change from day to day or season to season. Health experts suggest you always consult a physician before starting a new exercise program or physical activity. Angel’s Landing is not recommended for anyone who is inexperienced, out of shape, not well balanced on their feet, or afraid of heights or ledges.