Zion National Park was one of the parks we visited on our first trip in 2018. Zion is one of the most popular parks so here our motivation to always arrive early really paid off. As a leader in conservation, visitors may experience a few obstacles, but careful planning can alleviate any frustration. Knowing what to expect helped us to focus on the many positive qualities of the park and enjoy our first experience in Zion canyon. Since then we have been drawn back multiple times to the beauty and adventure this park has to offer.

Zion National Park is located in southwest Utah off State Route 9 in Springdale, not too far from Las Vegas, Nevada, Salt Lake City and St. George, Utah. It is our nation’s 14th national park established by law on November 19, 1919 by President Woodrow Wilson. The park is open year round, but facilities and the shuttle schedule change with the seasons. In 2020, during the COVID-19 pandemic, Zion ranked third busiest national park with 3.6 million visitors. There are typically more than 4 million visitors per year. The most popular time to visit is April thru October with spring and fall offering more moderate weather. July is the busiest month, and you should expect extreme crowds on holidays.

The area that is now Zion National Park was known by the first inhabitants as Mukuntuweap, a Paiute word which means “straight canyon.” Isaac Behunin, the first Mormon occupant of the canyon, called it “Little Zion,” meaning a place of reverence and peace. By the 1860s, the town of Springdale was established, but the area remained too remote for tourism. Only small portions of the land were inhabited until 1904 when Frederick S. Dellenbaugh’s portraits of the area were displayed at the St. Louis world’s fair, and captured the nation’s attention. In 1909 the area was declared Mukuntuweap National Monument by President William Taft. The name was changed to Zion National Monument in 1918. More land was added when it became a national park in 1919.

Zion is popular for hiking with the famed Narrows and Angel’s Landing Trails. It is also famous for biking, canyoneering and rock climbing. Horseback riding is available from March to October. The Zion canyon is accessible by foot, bike or shuttle but only in the winter months by car.

The Zion Canyon shuttle was established in 2000 to prevent traffic and parking problems, protect the natural park resources, and provide tranquility. The shuttle is free and operates two routes. The first route is in the park from the visitor center to Zion Lodge and certain trailheads. The second route operates in the town of Springdale. There are nine locations where the shuttle picks up and it drops off at the park pedestrian and bike entrance. When the shuttle is in operation, from mid March to late November, private vehicles are not allowed to enter the Zion Canyon Scenic Drive, except for Zion Lodge and Canyon Trail Ride Guests who are allowed to drive to designated parking areas. Personal vehicles may be allowed under other special circumstances with a special permit obtained from the visitor center. The park has limited parking spaces which fill up early. Paid parking is available in Springdale. Shuttle schedules can vary and it is best to check current schedules at the visitor center. Generally, shuttles run from 6am to 9pm with the last shuttle picking up at 8:15pm. A shuttle will depart from each stop approximately every 6 to 10 minutes. The shuttles are equipped with bike racks, but fat tire and e-bikes are not allowed. Strollers are allowed, but must be placed on bike racks. All shuttles are wheelchair accessible. Pets are not allowed; service animals are permitted, but see rules and exclusions.

Guests traveling east by automobile on the Zion Mount Carmel Highway may pass through the Zion-Mount Carmel Tunnel. This is a 1.1 mile tunnel dedicated on July 4, 1930, created to provide access from Zion to Bryce and Grand Canyon national parks. Since 1989 the national park service has monitored traffic through the tunnel specifically to ensure safe passage after numerous accidents involving larger vehicles. Larger vehicles must purchase a $15 tunnel fee permit and may only pass during scheduled times which are posted seasonally. Larger vehicles can be measured upon park entry and purchase the tunnel permit which is good for two trips through the tunnel within 7 days of purchase. Rangers posted at either end of the tunnel will convert traffic from two way to one way to allow larger vehicles to pass safely which does cause frequent traffic backups. Oversize vehicles, semi trucks, bicycles and pedestrians are prohibited in the tunnel.

There are two visitor centers inside the park. Zion Canyon visitor center located near the south entrance is open year round. Kolob Canyon visitor center is in the northwest corner of the park off Interstate-15. In addition, the Zion Human HIstory Museum offers park information, orientation programs and a bookstore as well as the museum exhibits. The museum is closed from November to February. The Springdale Visitor Center is located one mile from the south entrance, outside the park, in the town of Springdale.

The Zion Lodge was designed in 1924 and offers modern hotel rooms and rustic cabins. Inside the lodge, the Red Rock Grill operates year round. The Castle Dome Cafe is located nearby with a seasonal cafe and gift shop.

There are three campgrounds in Zion. South and Watchman campgrounds are located in the canyon near the south entrance. Temperatures in summer are 95+ degrees with little to no shade. Lava Point is a 1 hour 20 minute drive from the south entrance situated at 7,890 feet.

South Campground has 117 campsites and reservations are required. There are no hookups, but a dump station is available as well as potable water. Generators are allowed within limited hours. Three sites are wheelchair accessible, but there are no wheelchair accessible facilities in the campground. These are located 0.3 miles away in Watchman Campground. Watchman Campground, also located near the south entrance, has 190 regular, seven wheelchair accessible, and six group sites. Most sites are reservation only, but reservations are always suggested. Tent and electric sites are available, but there are no sites with full hookups. A dump station is available. Lava Point Campground is typically open May thru September. The six primitive sites are first come first serve. Vehicles longer than 19 feet are not allowed on the road to the campground.

Two of the most popular trails in Zion Canyon are Angels Landing, a strenuous hike and narrow ledge with drop offs on both sides, and The Narrows, a seasonal hike through the river in a slot canyon. If these sound too daunting, there are many other options to choose from including the following:

There are additional trails in the Kolob Canyon area in the northwest corner of the park. Overnight backpacking trips require a wilderness permit which can be reserved in advance of your visit.

The Story So Far

Our first visit to Zion was in August, 2018. We stayed the night before in Las Vegas, Nevada and woke up early to make the 2 ½ hour drive to the park, arriving just after 8am even after losing an hour when we entered the Mountain Time Zone. Parking at the visitor center was already filling up, but we managed to find a spot. After a quick stop at the visitor center, where we noted the extremely helpful rangers, we got in line for the shuttle. The line was still short and we didn’t wait long. I noted in my journal “first impression: crowded but beautiful.” The shuttle ride up the narrow canyon was spectacular. This was our first red rock park and we strained our necks to look up at the beautiful towering cliffs. At shuttle stop 5 we got off and walked to the Lower Emerald Pool trail and then across the road to the Zion Lodge where we picked up sandwiches to go from the cafe. Back in the car we headed east on the Zion-Mt. Carmel Highway. This was an experience in itself. Delays are common as rangers direct larger vehicles through the tunnel, but we enjoyed the scenery looking down on the canyon below as we ate our lunch and waited our turn. Hair raising glimpses of the sheer canyon walls make for an exhilarating drive through the tunnel. On the other side the beautiful rock formations tempted us to pull off at every turnout, but we had to limit ourselves to only a few as we had many more miles ahead of us that day.

The following year we returned to Zion with Sarah’s husband, Jarad. We wrote about this trip on our “Shapes and Forms: Utah 5 in 4” blog. This time we also drove from Las Vegas, arriving in Springdale in the middle of the night. Rising early the next morning and bypassing the visitor center, which wouldn’t open for a couple more hours, we headed east through the tunnel and hiked the Canyon Overlook Trail. Sarah would return a couple months later, again driving from Las Vegas in the early morning reaching the park as the sun came up. This time she would finally fulfill her wish to hike Angels Landing.

Sarah and Jarad returned again in August, 2020 to spend a week in the park staying in one of the lodge cabins for five nights and then a few more in nearby Springdale. This time they had time to fully experience Zion Canyon and the surrounding area. The lodge cabins were comfortable and offered a peaceful, private retreat. With no television and limited wi-fi they spent their evenings relaxing on their porch reading or watching the deer graze on the lawns. They enjoyed an afternoon horseback ride through the Virgin River and along the Sand Bench Trail. They rented bikes at the lodge and rode to the end of the canyon to The Temple of Sinawava. They hiked to Scout Lookout and the full five miles (ten round trip) of The Narrows that you are allowed to hike without a backcountry permit. This difficult hike is entirely in the river and at times can require swimming. The exertion required to hike upstream can make the cold water feel refreshing at times. Going the full length as they did, there is nowhere to get out and rest as you get farther into the canyon. The following day, feet still bleeding from hiking in the river, they chose an easier route, Upper Emerald Pool. They also hiked at nearby Bryce and Grand Canyon National Parks, spent a day kayaking on Lake Powell, where they saw the famed Horseshoe Bend. In addition, they spent time exploring Springdale and enjoyed the shops and restaurants.

Neil Peart writes about hiking Angels Landing in October, 2013 in his book “Far and Near.” He also sums up the best description of the park in “Ghost Rider” on pages 157 to 158 in an October 17, 1998 letter to a friend while staying in a Zion Lodge cabin and dining at the lodge. In part he writes, “You’ll be my guest for dinner tonight, in one of the most beautiful places you, or I, have ever seen.” And going on to recount “...the red sandstone canyon walls rise up 2,000 feet and the floor of the canyon is barely that wide, so the cottonwoods and lush vegetation along the Virgin river only see the sun in the middle of the day.” He continues referring to “the brightest stars I’ve ever seen since...I don’t know when.” He also describes the rock formations, “..some angular and fortress-like, others rounded in swoops and swirls by the action of water and the stones it hurled along. Higher up, the rock is white, while lower down the iron and other minerals have stained it various shades of red and brown.”

Zion continues to reign as one of our nation’s most popular national park destinations. One look at this stunning landscape will make you appreciate the conservation efforts in place to protect this natural wonder. When you plan your trip to Zion National Park, research and make reservations ahead of time. Planning and preparation are key to an enjoyable visit - maybe even one that will bring you back time and again to this spectacular setting.

“In short, gorgeous.” - Neil Peart (Ghost Rider, 2002)