The Way Out Is The Way In

August 3, 2020: My husband, Jarad, and I were staying for a week in a cabin at Zion Lodge and today we were hiking “The Narrows.” I was 22 weeks pregnant and determined to get in as much hiking and outdoor activity as I could before the birth of my son. Nothing, not even a COVID-19 pandemic, was going to stop me; except maybe the Zion National Park shuttle system. Personal automobiles are not allowed in Zion Canyon beyond the lodge. In reaction to the COVID-19 pandemic, reservations were now required on the park shuttle, even for guests of the lodge, and I had carefully made the required appointment for each day of our stay. However, I realized, late the night before our hike, in order to get to the trail head at shuttle stop 9 we would need to make an early start, not from shuttle stop 5 where the lodge is located, but from the visitor center at shuttle stop 1. The shuttles fill up quickly and especially during this time we could not count on getting a spot half way up the line. We woke up at 4am, quickly got ready and drove to the visitor center. The way out was the way in. We were the first and only ones in line. By the time we boarded our shuttle was full and as I expected no one would exit until shuttle stop 9, the Temple of Sinawava.

The Narrows is one of the most famous hikes in Zion National Park, or any park for that matter. It is extremely popular because it can be tailored to meet almost any level of ability. It is extremely beautiful because it is through a slot canyon with walls rising over a thousand feet on either side, and it is extremely unique because the trail is almost entirely in the river, the north fork of the Virgin River to be exact.

The most popular trail head starts at the Temple of Sinawava on the Riverside walk, a paved, wheelchair accessible route. Most guests enter here and return the same way. No permit is required for this ten mile round trip route which averages 1 to 6 hours, depending on where you decide to turn around. At the end of the Riverwalk, the paved trail enters the river. Most of the hike from here on is in the water. A half mile further is Mystery Falls, where the water flows down the walls from the canyon high above. This is a popular stopping point for families with young kids or anyone feeling less determined. A couple miles further, past Orderville Canyon on the east side, is the area known as Wall Street. This is the narrowest part of the canyon where the walls tower high above and there is no opportunity to leave the water or to climb to higher ground in the event of a thunderstorm or flash flood. Those who persevere cross a field of boulders to Big Springs, a series of springs and small waterfalls, at the five mile mark. This is a mandatory turn-around spot.

An alternate route is a strenuous 16 mile one way hike from Chamberlain’s Ranch to the Temple of Sinawava. Guests must arrange their own transportation to the Chamberlain’s Ranch trail head and a wilderness permit is required.

Sun shining through the canyon as we headed back to the Temple of Sinawava.

Jarad and I would take the more popular route. As we rode on the shuttle it was still dark with only the moon and stars lighting the canyon. When we exited at our trail head the sun was just beginning to lighten the sky. The morning was cold and I started out in a down pullover. We carried a dry bag in our backpack to keep our lunch and other items dry. The canyon is wide at the beginning. The river appears quiet and slow moving but the current is strong underneath. Walking upstream against the current on the slippery rocks is more difficult than you expect. We kept pace with another couple from Chicago who had done more research and brought along walking sticks. Even with this added support, they, and Jarad, fell a few times. Note: I did not. However, even if you don’t fall you will get wet! On this day in early August the water was pretty high. I am 5’7” and the water was mostly thigh high and chest level on me. In a few spots we had to swim. As the canyon narrows there is no beach on either side and nowhere to get out of the water

The canyon walls are surprisingly high and it takes awhile for the sun to get through. As the canyon narrows you can’t see too far ahead and the imagery changed as we rounded every bend. The colors constantly changed throughout our hike on the way in and the way back out. The canyon walls lightened from dark to grey to the orange and pinks we were used to while the water changed from a dark black to a bright blue. The hike is exhilarating both physically and mentally. We had a strong sense of our lack of control against the elements, the river running strong and cold with nowhere to escape to and no spot to rest. As you exhaust your energy the cold water feels deceivingly refreshing, but it is important to bring both food and water and remember to eat and drink. I knew I would do this hike again, but I would not recommend doing it alone.

I used my Fit-bit to track our progress to the 5 mile turn around point. There were still very few people around us. The water was deep and it was quiet except for the sound of a trickling waterfall. With nowhere to rest, we turned around and headed back. The way out was the way in. We were surprised to find it was just as difficult to walk downstream. The current pushed against us as we fought to keep our balance on the slippery river bottom. The sun was warm and the cool water felt good. Our feet were numb from the cold water and starting to hurt. With one mile to go we encountered crowds of people heading in, enough of them that it sounded as loud as a water park. By now our feet hurt really bad especially when they were out of the water in the stinging air. Although there was now some beach to escape the river we struggled to stay in the water, walking through the throngs of people like we were walking through a crowd at a rock concert. Someone told me you will know when you are at the end because your feet will be bleeding. As we exited the river, soaking wet, our feet were indeed dripping blood.

It was 100 degrees in the valley that day. We took the shuttle back to the visitor center where I changed into my trusty flip flops in the car. We drove to nearby Springdale to collect some supplies, and coffee and ice cream, then drove back to the lodge and walked to our cabin. By now Jarad’s sandals were stuck to his feet with dried blood and he had to take them off in the shower.

Even with our bloodied, blistered feet, we agreed that the adventure was worth any discomfort. We bandaged up our feet, fell asleep and agreed on a shorter hike for the next day.

Although The Narrows is considered an appropriate hike for most individuals including children who are at least four feet tall, without proper precaution and the right equipment it can be dangerous. It is important to know the flow rate as well as to modify your route based on river volume and your level of ability. The round trip hike usually takes from one to six hours, depending on how far you go, with an average of 2 to 3 hours for those who venture as far as the area known as Wall Street. In general it takes about ⅔ the time to hike out as it takes to go in.

The most popular time to hike The Narrows is late spring to early summer when the water level is lower and the water temperature is warmer. However, April and early May is also the time when runoff is most common, and in late summer thunderstorms, both of which make the river more susceptible to flash flooding. In the fall the river is more stable, but the water temperature is colder and the days are shorter allowing less daylight hours for hiking. In the winter and early spring the water is cold and water levels are high. The hike is closed when the snow melt raises the river over 150 CFS (cubic feet per second). In all seasons hike early to avoid crowds. The best light for photography is between 10am and 3pm from May to September.

The water level of the Virgin River fluctuates with rainfall and snowmelt. Below 50 CFS walking is generally easy. Below 70 CFS walking is moderately difficult with knee deep crossings and pools up to waist deep. Above 70 CFS walking is challenging with thigh deep crossings and chest deep pools. Above 100 CFS walking is difficult and dangerous. In addition, the river bottom is slippery with an uneven, rocky surface. This is even more difficult to navigate when the water is murky and you can’t see the bottom. Over 150 CFS The Narrows is closed. It will also be closed any time there is a Flash Flood Warning issued by the National Weather Service and for two additional hours after the warning is lifted. During a flash flood the water level can rise instantly within seconds or minutes with a wall of water 12 feet high or more. Hikers can be left stranded, injured, or even killed. You should always check the weather forecast and flash flood potential before you hike. Despite the forecast, a flash flood can happen any time.

The following are a few safety and precautionary recommendations. Safety is your responsibility and hiking is at your own risk:

Know the flash flood and weather forecast.
Wear closed toe, sturdy, supportive shoes. Hiking boots with good ankle support are best on the uneven rocky riverbed. Sandals and bare feet can result in twisted ankles and crushed toes.
A walking stick or trekking poles may be helpful to keep your balance on the uneven surface and to check the water level in murky pools. Avoid jumping to prevent lower leg fractures which are common on an uneven surface.
The high canyon walls and cold water create cooler conditions. Dress in seasonally appropriate synthetic or wool layers. To prevent hypothermia avoid cotton clothing.
Carry water and food. There is a risk of cyanotoxin exposure in the water in Zion and no known filtration methods are effective to reduce the toxins to a level safe for drinking. Drinking fluids and eating may help prevent heat exhaustion. High energy foods may help prevent hypothermia.
Waterproof all of your belongings. Consider carrying extra clothing, a headlamp and first aid kit.

Disclaimer: There are many risks, both natural and/or man-made, that can lead to injury or death while hiking. It is the responsibility of the individual to learn the necessary skills for safe hiking. All participants must assume responsibility for their own actions and safety, exercise sound judgment, be prepared for all conditions, and seek advice on current weather and trail conditions. Conditions can change from day to day or season to season. Health experts suggest you always consult a physician before starting a new exercise program or physical activity. The Narrows is not recommended for anyone who is inexperienced, out of shape, or not well balanced on their feet.