by Diana Pratt

The whole idea for our Neil Peart Inspired National Park Road Trips started with us planning a trip to Yosemite. I had lived in Sonora, California for five years when I was married, just 45 minutes from the valley floor. My kids were all born in the area, and we made frequent trips to the park over the years. After Sarah was born we moved away, but every summer we spent time in the area and most years made a trip to Yosemite. Since my very first trip to the park, I had wanted to stay at The Ahwahnee, a luxury hotel in Yosemite Valley. When Sarah first suggested a trip to Yosemite, one of my questions was, “Can we stay at the Ahwahnee?” Her response: “if you’re paying for it.”

We made a reservation for one night, which was all we could afford at more than $600 per night. Sarah suggested we make a road trip out of it. She’s always had an interest in the National Parks so we planned a week long trip to parks in California, Utah, and Arizona. When the fires broke out in Yosemite in 2018 our reservation was put on hold. In fact, Yosemite Valley was closed for a time and didn’t open up until the day we would have left there.

With Yosemite postponed, we added Sequoia and Kings Canyon to the itinerary, plus a one night stay in Death Valley, where we originally planned to just drive through. There we found another luxury hotel, The Oasis.

The national parks always offer some type of overnight accommodations. Options may include camping, RV sites with or without hookups, cabins, or tent cabins. Lodges, where available, range from the ordinary to the exquisite. Reservations can usually be made up to 13 months in advance and are recommended to be made as early as possible. The national park website provides specifics and lodging options for each park. When we booked our original stay at the Ahwahnee, we booked 13 months in advance. These are a few of our experiences so far.

Bright Angel Lodge, Grand Canyon National Park

On our visit to the Grand Canyon in 2018, we chose to stay in the Bright Angel Lodge rim cabins because that is where Neil Peart has stayed. The Bright Angel Lodge is located on the south rim and was designed in 1935 by Mary Jane Colter. The lodge was intended to provide moderately priced accommodations, as compared to the higher priced El Tovar Lodge just to the east. Bright Angel has two restaurants on site: the Harvey House Cafe and the Arizona Steakhouse, as well as a Soda Fountain. Bright Angel offers lodge rooms and cabins, a few of which are located on the Rim Walk, with limited canyon views. We placed our reservation over a year in advance and secured one of these coveted rim cabins.

Bright Angel Lodge cabin. Image credit: usparklodging.com — Bright Angel Lodge cabin. *Image credit: usparklodging.com*

We arrived at the Grand Canyon after a long, five hour drive. We entered the park through the east entrance, made a quick stop at Desert Overlook, which was crowded with tourists, and finally pulled up to Bright Angel Lodge, hot, tired and probably a little bit cranky. We were greeted by a less than enthusiastic staff, assigned cabin 6148 and given vague instructions as to where to find parking and unload. Here we met the overtaxed bellhop who showed up hot, tired, and probably a little bit cranky. When we made our reservation, the helpful booking agent explained the limited view concept - standing on the edge of the rim you look down into the canyon versus looking out across the canyon from your cabin window. He also mentioned we were the first to book a rim cabin for that date. When we walked into cabin 6148 we were extremely disappointed to be looking straight out our window at Hopi House. Hopi House is beautiful, but it is made of stone and two stories high so it completely blocked our view of the canyon. Apparently cabins are assigned daily and no consideration is given to how early a reservation is made. We suggested they change this practice. We also suggested cabin 6148, with zero view, be removed from the list of limited view rim cabins. When we requested a different cabin, there was only one left, number 6153, located on the far end next to the parking lot. This cabin did offer the limited view we had purchased even if its proximity to the parking lot made it less desirable. The bellhop gloomily helped us move our stuff. Hopefully my generous tip cheered him up. Cabin 6148 was unacceptable, cabin 6153 was adequate and those in between, positioned higher above the trail and increasingly further from the parking lot, looked to be just right.

We spent two nights in cabin 6153. We were warned ahead of time the cabins have no air conditioning, but the high elevation, consistent breeze, and large screened windows, which we left open all night, kept us cool enough even in the August heat. We thoroughly enjoyed being able to step off of our porch and onto the rim trail. The Grand Canyon offers many activities and we could quickly and easily go back and forth to our room as often as we desired. The parking lot noise happily turned out to be minimal. We could step outside or sit at our window and watch the sunset, sunrise, and changing colors of the canyon as the light played off the walls all day long. We had shelter and a front row seat when a sudden rainstorm, with lightning and thunder echoing off the canyon, moved quickly through.

View from Rim Trail outside of our cabin

Overall we loved the view and convenience of our front row cabin. Sarah still talks about her delicious stuffed squash dinner from the Arizona Steakhouse and we visited the Soda Fountain often. We enjoyed a fancy, delicious dinner at El Tovar one evening, complete with attentive, courteous service. We wouldn’t mind trying one of those expensive El Tovar Lodge rooms on a future visit, but we definitely recommend the rim cabins at Bright Angel Lodge. Just don’t let them put you in 6148.

Wuksachi Lodge, Sequoia National Park

Advanced reservations are recommended, but when we had to postpone our Yosemite visit due to wildfires in 2018, we were thankfully able to secure a couple of last minute reservations. The first was at the Wuksachi Lodge in Sequoia National Park. This lodge is located at 7200 feet, surrounded by a sequoia forest, minutes from Lodge Pole Village where we found the best ice cream, and close to many attractions including the General Sherman tree. The main building of the Wuksachi Lodge is a beautiful cedar and stone structure with a full service restaurant. The guest rooms are located 100 to 200 yards away in separate buildings. The longest, hardest hike of our day was pushing our belongings on the luggage rack up the hill to our room while laughing the entire way. Making sure we didn’t have a runaway cart on the way back down would be the next day’s challenge. The lodge does have bellhops, but when Sarah asked for one, the woman at the desk responded, “Do you need one?” and her tone shamed us into replying “no.” The room was not fancy, but it was large, clean, and nice. For example, the air conditioning was window mounted. And the hotel website explains that internet service is limited. However, you had the sense that you were being afforded every possible luxury in a remote location and the scenery was worth any slight inconvenience. Sarah loved it because she thought it felt like she was at an exclusive summer camp - she would say the room was even better than expected.

We had been surprised to find Sequoia to be such a green, lavish forest even in August. The setting here was beautiful and the smell was fresh and delightfully woodsy. We enjoyed a pre-dinner coffee on the main building deck, and a nice, relaxed dinner at The Peaks, the restaurant located in the main lodge. We enjoyed the great service and the huge picture windows offering lovely views to the outside.

We never saw the mother bear with twin cubs reported to be in the area, but we did see a doe with her fawn, still with the white spots, outside our window early the next morning. At under $300 per night (our price in 2018), we found the Wuksachi Lodge a real deal. Some reviews say the rooms are not worth the price, but when staying in a national park you must consider the location and convenience. The Wuksachi Lodge is in a prime location inside the park and close to many of Sequoia’s best attractions.

The Oasis, Death Valley National Park

The other last minute reservation we made was at The Oasis at Death Valley National Park. It cost a bit more, but was nothing short of luxurious. We stayed at the four-diamond resort Inn at Death Valley. The hotel was built in 1927 and, inspired by Spanish missions, features red tile roofs, stucco walls, palm trees, fountains and a spring-fed swimming pool. The hotel sits on the hillside overlooking Death Valley and facing the Panamint Mountains.

Our last minute reservation, made just one week in advance, cost us a pretty penny but got us the pool bungalow villa. It happened to be the last room available on the night of our stay. Our room was so fancy that instead of the normal key card issued to the other guests, we were given a gold key they produced from the back room.

Here, valet and bellhop service is a must. We followed our bellhop through a series of tunnels and stairs to our room, which looked like a tiny house, detached from the rest of the hotel. It was made of stone with hardwood floors, open beamed ceilings, and had every luxury available inside. French doors opened on either side leading back to the main hotel or onto our deck overlooking the pool. A private stairway led down to the pool and cabanas. This gave us 24 hour access to the pool, closed to other guests at 10pm. We immediately headed down and alternated between the pool and cabanas in the 120 degree heat.

We enjoyed dinner in the bar, which offered a full dining room menu. The prickly pear margaritas were delicious, as was the Parisian Gnocchi I ordered, and the Thai Green Curry Sarah chose. Our room package included breakfast for two in the dining room the next morning. We got up extra early so we could take advantage of the pool again before checkout. We drank our coffee in a cabana poolside before it opened to the rest of the guests. This is desert splendor at its finest. The hotel website claims that every guest will be pampered to the fullest. Based on our experience with the magnificent room and accommodating staff, we believe them. You wouldn’t have to stay in the pool bungalow to enjoy all the amenities at The Oasis, but it was definitely worth the splurge.

The Ahwahnee, Yosemite National Park

The highlight of our national park stays will always be The Ahwahnee in Yosemite. When the park closed in 2018 due to wildfires, we postponed our stay to March of 2019 and increased it to three nights. Later in a twist of fate we added a fourth night. Staying at The Ahwahnee has been a dream and bucket list item for me for over 35 years, since the first time I visited the park and peeked inside.

The Ahwahnee Hotel is located in Yosemite Valley and opened in 1927. It was declared a National Historic Landmark in 1987. The hotel was built by the Yosemite Park and Curry Company and originally served as both a hotel and the company offices.

The Ahwahnee was designed by Gilbert Stanley Underwood who also designed Zion Lodge, Bryce Canyon Lodge and Grand Canyon North Rim Lodge. The site was chosen for its views of Glacier Point, Half Dome and Yosemite Falls. When making a reservation you can opt for a view of one of these features for a small additional fee (worth it!). The hotel has hosted many famous individuals including our Neil Peart. Yelp reviews of the Ahwahnee are mixed with as many people complaining that the rooms are not worth the high price as there are people who believe the location makes it all worthwhile. I couldn’t help but worry that I had built it up so much in my mind I was bound to be disappointed. I need not have worried.

We checked in on a Sunday afternoon. Being on a road trip we had a full SUV including food and a cooler. Since you can’t leave food or anything else in your car due to high bear activity, everything had to be unloaded. Our valet and bellhop did so cheerfully with no complaining. Our room was small but had everything we could ever need including the most comfortable beds and highest thread count linens. I didn’t really check the thread count, but that is what I imagine the highest thread count linens feel like. Our sitting area looked out on the view of Half Dome we had opted for. Sarah’s husband Jarad, who joined us on this trip, said it was the nicest place he’d ever stayed. We would have agreed if we hadn’t stayed in the pool bungalow villa at The Oasis the year before...but it remains the most exciting. It should be noted that every room at The Ahwahnee opens with a gold key.

Stone fireplace in hotel. For reference, Sarah is 5’7”.

We spent plenty of time on the main floor of the hotel. The many spacious seating areas in the great room invited us to sit and read, enjoy the views, or people watch. The immense stone fireplaces, big enough to walk right into, amazed us. Since it was winter with snow still on the ground in places, one of the fireplaces was kept lit at all times. We never got tired of the smell of the wood fire and often stopped to warm our hands or feet after a walk outside.

In the afternoon, guests gathered at 4pm for tea and cookies, a hotel tradition. During this time we enjoyed the music playing on the grand piano. We never missed this treat in the four days we stayed there. The 4 o’clock tea and cookies is one of our favorite memories of our stay.

We enjoyed one dinner and one breakfast in the big dining room, with delicious food and great service. Appropriate dress is requested for dinner. We stopped at the hostess desk one morning to confirm our dinner reservation we had made months earlier, wearing our hiking clothes, and the nice man said “and just a reminder, formal dress is requested for dinner.” Sarah said “oh yeah, don’t worry, we’ll change.” He looked a little embarrassed at the perceived implication but we thought it was funny. Even though they have relaxed the rules over the years, we had fun getting dressed up for our dinner.

The sweet shop offered truffles and other goodies and the gift shop was exquisite. The bar was open as a coffee bar in the morning and offered lunch and light dinner options later in the day. The round, outdoor heated pool was enjoyed by Sarah and Jarad and is a nice place to relax on a sunny afternoon.

A concierge was always available to help plan our day and answer any questions. The staff were all friendly, helpful, and fun. They always asked about our plans or what we had seen or done that day and often shared stories of their own.

The hotel is close enough to walk to Yosemite Village. There is also a shuttle available to take to the village or other stops and attractions. If you prefer, the valet will happily bring up your car.

On one of our walks back from the village we saw two young bears playing in the meadow - the first time I have definitely seen a bear in the park (as other encounters were obscured by darkness). Later we watched the same two from the hotel patio. Our stay at The Ahwahnee surpassed all of our expectations and really was a dream come true.

We each pay a fabulous price for our visions of paradise. In our experience so far, we have found our rooms and stays inside the National Park lodges to be well worth the money. Each park offers a unique experience and the location and convenience is unbeatable. We look forward to many more stays in the national park lodges.